Buying a wardrobe online is exciting — until it arrives and you realise the doors won't open all the way, or it's three inches too tall for the alcove you had in mind. A wardrobe is one of the biggest pieces of furniture you'll ever bring into a bedroom, and unlike a lamp or a rug, there's no "just squeeze it in somewhere" option. Get the measurements wrong and you're either sending it back or living with a door that scrapes the ceiling every time you open it.
The good news is that measuring for a wardrobe isn't complicated. It just needs to be done properly, in the right order, with the right things in mind — especially if you're choosing between sliding and hinged doors, which have very different space requirements.
At Prime Wardrobe, this is one of the most common questions we get from first-time buyers, so this guide walks you through exactly what to measure, how to measure it, and the mistakes that trip up most people before they order. If you're deciding between door types first, our sliding vs hinged wardrobe doors comparison covers that decision in more depth.
Why measuring matters before you buy
A wardrobe that's the wrong size isn't just an inconvenience — it can affect how the whole room functions. Too wide, and it eats into your walking space or blocks a door. Too tall, and you risk it not clearing a sloped ceiling, a ceiling rose, or a curtain rail. Too little clearance in front, and hinged doors either can't open fully or bang into your bed every time.

Sliding wardrobes solve some of these problems by not needing swing space, but they bring their own rule: the wall space has to be exact, because the doors run along a fixed track rather than adjusting to an awkward gap.
Measuring first — before you fall in love with a particular finish or style — means you're shopping with a shortlist of wardrobes that will actually fit, rather than hoping for the best.
What you need to measure
There are three measurements that matter for every wardrobe purchase: wall width, ceiling height, and floor clearance. Miss any one of these and you risk a return.
Wall width
Measure the full length of the wall you're planning to place the wardrobe against, from corner to corner or skirting board to skirting board. Take the measurement at three points — low, middle, and high — because walls (especially in older houses) are rarely perfectly straight. Use the smallest of the three figures as your maximum width, so you're not caught out by a wall that narrows slightly higher up.

If you're fitting a wardrobe into an alcove or between two fixed points (like a chimney breast and a wall), measure that gap in the same way, and leave a small allowance — a few centimetres — for the fact that walls are rarely perfectly square.
Ceiling height
Measure from the floor to the ceiling at the exact spot the wardrobe will stand, not just anywhere in the room. Ceilings can dip, and sloped ceilings under the eaves are a common issue in loft conversions and older properties. If your ceiling has any slope, coving, or a light fitting near the wardrobe's intended position, measure to the lowest point the wardrobe's back or top will sit under.

Leave a small gap — most people leave 2–5cm between the top of the wardrobe and the ceiling — both to make it easier to manoeuvre into place and to allow for any settling or unevenness in the floor.
Floor clearance (sliding vs hinged)
This is where sliding and hinged wardrobes really differ, and it's the measurement most people forget.
-
Sliding doors need almost no clearance in front; the doors run along a track parallel to the wardrobe, so you can push a bed right up close in front of it.
-
Hinged doors need clearance equal to roughly the depth of the door itself, so it can swing open a full 90 degrees or more without hitting a bed, drawer unit, or opposite wall.

If your room is tight — a box room, a small guest room, or a room where the wardrobe will sit close to the bed — this single factor can decide which door type you need, regardless of how much you like the look of hinged doors.
Step-by-step measuring guide
Step 1: Measure the wall
Using a tape measure (a laser measure is even more accurate if you have one), measure the full width of the wall or alcove at low, middle, and high points. Note the smallest figure — this is your maximum wardrobe width. Always shop to this number, not the largest one you recorded.

Step 2: Measure ceiling height
Measure floor to ceiling at the exact spot the wardrobe will stand. If the ceiling isn't flat, measure at the lowest point within the wardrobe's footprint. Subtract your clearance allowance (2–5cm) from this figure to get your maximum wardrobe height.

Step 3: Check door swing (if hinged)
If you're considering hinged doors, measure out from the wall by the depth of a single door panel (this is usually listed on the product page, but assume roughly the depth of the wardrobe itself as a starting point) and mark that distance on the floor. Check that nothing — bed frame, chest of drawers, another door — sits within that arc. If something does, either the doors won't fully open or you'll need to switch to sliding.

UK wardrobe size chart
|
Wardrobe type |
Typical width range |
Typical depth |
Typical height |
Best suited to |
|
Compact sliding (e.g. Batumi) |
100–120cm |
60cm |
200–210cm |
Box rooms, small bedrooms |
|
Mid-size sliding (e.g. Lyon) |
150–180cm |
60–65cm |
210–220cm |
Standard double bedrooms |
|
Large sliding (e.g. Sycylia) |
200–250cm |
65cm |
220–236cm |
Master bedrooms, walk-in-style storage |
|
Hinged wardrobe |
90–100cm per door section |
55–60cm |
200–210cm |
Rooms with generous floor clearance |
Common measuring mistakes
-
Measuring only once, at one height. Wall bows — always check low, middle, and high.
-
Forgetting the skirting board. A wardrobe pushed flush to the wall may sit slightly proud of the skirting, adding a centimetre or two you didn't account for.
-
Ignoring door swing space for hinged wardrobes. This is the single most common reason hinged wardrobes get returned.
-
Not checking the delivery route. A wardrobe that fits the room might not fit up a narrow staircase or through a doorway — check hallway and stair widths too, especially for pre-assembled units.
-
Measuring the room, not the exact spot. A ceiling height reading from the middle of the room won't help if the wardrobe is going under a sloped section.
Sliding vs hinged — which needs less space
|
Sliding doors |
Hinged doors |
|
|
Floor clearance needed |
Minimal — bed or furniture can sit close in front |
Full door depth, typically 55–65cm swing arc |
|
Best for |
Small or box rooms, rooms with furniture close by |
Larger rooms with open floor space in front |
|
Wall width tolerance |
Must be close to exact — doors run on a fixed track |
More forgiving — a few cm either side is less critical |
|
Access to full interior at once |
No — one section at a time |
Yes — both doors open together |
Pros of sliding wardrobes: save floor space, sleek modern look, good for tight rooms.
Cons of sliding wardrobes: can only access one section at a time, wall width needs to be precise.
Pros of hinged wardrobes: full interior access at once, more flexible on exact wall width.
Cons of hinged wardrobes: need clear floor space in front, awkward in box rooms.
If your room is small or the wardrobe will sit close to the bed, sliding is almost always the better fit — see our best wardrobes for small bedrooms guide for specific picks. If you have generous floor space and want to see and reach everything at once, hinged doors are worth the extra clearance.
What to check before ordering
-
Measured wall width at low, middle, and high points
-
Measured ceiling height at the exact wardrobe position
-
Checked for sloped ceilings, coving, or light fittings nearby
-
Confirmed door swing clearance (if choosing hinged)
-
Checked delivery route — hallway, stairs, doorways
-
Left a small allowance (2–5cm) on height and width for tolerance
Why shop your wardrobe with Prime Wardrobe
Getting the measurements right is only half the job — the other half is finding a wardrobe that actually matches them. At Prime Wardrobe, every product listing includes full width, depth, and height dimensions upfront, along with clear photos of sliding vs hinged door clearance, so you're never guessing before you buy.
A few things that make ordering easier once you've got your measurements:
-
Sizes across the range: from compact sliding wardrobes like Batumi suited to box rooms right up to large master-bedroom units like Sycylia, so there's a fit for most standard UK wall widths.
-
Sliding and hinged options: browse the full Wardrobes collection to choose based on your room's floor clearance rather than being limited to one door style.
-
Straightforward delivery details: packaging dimensions are listed so you can check your stairs and hallways will manage it before it's dispatched — see our Shipping Policy for delivery windows by region.
If you're ever unsure whether a specific model will fit your space, our team can help you double-check dimensions against your measurements before you order.
Not sure a wardrobe you've ordered will work out? Our Return & Refund Policy covers returns on unopened and faulty items.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the standard wardrobe size in the UK?
There isn't a single "standard" size — UK wardrobes commonly range from around 100cm wide for compact single units up to 250cm or more for large sliding wardrobes, with heights typically between 200–236cm to suit standard ceiling heights.
How much space do I need in front of a wardrobe?
For sliding doors, very little — you can position furniture close to the front. For hinged doors, you need clearance roughly equal to the depth of one door panel so it can swing open fully.
Can a wardrobe be too tall for a room?
Yes. Always measure ceiling height at the exact spot the wardrobe will stand, not just the room's general height, and leave a small gap for clearance and any unevenness in the floor.
Do sliding wardrobes save space compared to hinged ones?
Yes — sliding doors run on a track and don't need floor clearance to open, making them a better fit for small or box rooms.
What happens if my wall isn't perfectly straight?
Measure at multiple heights and use the smallest figure as your maximum. A few centimetres of variance is common in most homes, especially older properties.